Thursday, 23 July 2009

Modern Traditionalist

I am 20 years old. In the 20 years of my existence I have witnessed the evolution of menswear in the same way that anybody else would. I have come to realize though that in the past decade or so the rate at which menswear is evolving seems to have been sped up. I blame my generation for this but it is not necessarily a bad thing. What is a bad thing however is this...

Can you imagine walking into a shop to purchase a double breasted suit Jacket only to find that the one you have picked up seems to have a substantial amount of buttons missing? And as you hastily search for another it then dawns on you that they all have missing buttons? It would be devastating. You would have to look elsewhere would you not? The problem is, this doesn't appear to be a mistake. Not only does this appear to be intentional but it's a trend that seems to have followed through to the likes of Alexander McQueen and Prada. Even Lanvin is in on it. Quite frankly I am disappointed.

Since 2004 I noticed that the mens suit jacket was gradually loosing its buttons and I was all for it to begin with but I really do believe this to be a step to far. Honestly speaking, this is the nicest example of such sartorial abominations. This suit by Gianfranco Ferré as you can see is extremely well cut, almost like a diamond but unfortunately it's not flawless. There is just no point.

I take pride in the fact that my background is in tailoring however I am a little embarrassed to be associated with a generation that insists on defiling menswear in such a maner. Don't get me wrong, the first single button suit jacket I ever saw was from Dolce & Gabbana and it completely changed the way I viewed menswear. It was glamorous and yet still masculine, it was young and fresh but still to be taken seriously. My eyes were opened to a new silhouette, one that I would swear by even to this day but honestly I don't think I will be embracing this new style quite as openly.

I'm sure the single buttoned suit was greeted with exactly the same hostility when it first arrived but only time will tell weather this new shape will be as successful.

Here's what a real suit jacket should look like...

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